i have 1996 600 xlt slp triple pipes .. lookin the hp more and a good setup

You must be clutched if you have pipes. I think you are at your limit with the mono block 600. Keep it together and enjoy what you have. Because that's it. 96 HP stock, pipes + 10-15 HP and then the crank pto end will be ready to ROAST... 98 up bottom ends had an oiler on the pto end and a bigger bearing also. You could try 95 or 96 XCR 38 mm carbs for more air and fuel and drill out your air box plate with more holes.

the xlt 600 motor is in 2004 xc

I have a 96 xlt with slp pipes , the 97 motor and newer has the 4th oil line going to the pto bearing 96 and eariler mono block does not . 96 year motor was rated at 92 hp and the 97 was at 96-97 hp . polaris changed the squish design a bit to match the after market SPI design . all that i have read so far and polaris mech i talked to that worked on it said that by now , (the bad crank / bearing problem that plaged this motor) if it was goin to blow up it would have done so in the first 1000 or so miles of being new. now with my motor ,i have jacked up the oil pump so it uses more oil but i run at right around 9000 - 9500 RPM the utmost upper limit of this motor . some are suprised that it is still together . its been like that for the 6 years ive had it and it will keep up (in a drage race only ) with any newer stock 600 . dont even think about keeping up in tight trails lol .

ok mine was bord .5mm on it 6 years ago.
SLP tripple pipes
38mm round slides with ufo inserts in them ( i think it helped mid range and some in the bogg that goes with piston port motors)
increased the oil flow , drilled out divider plate in airbox 1/2 or 3/4 in holes i have more holes than plastic lol
EPI red spring in the primary clutch , stock wights , rebuild the clutch it will help
EPI yellow spring for secondary again buy a rebuild kit
replaced the track with a CAMOPLAST w/ 144 studs still spins like crazy
changed the top gear in chain case from 21 tooth to a 18 tooth, i did top out on a frozen lake at 110 - 115 with the 21 tooth now with the 18 i top out at ohh around 90-95 but OMG did it help the bottom end id rather be qiuck out of the hole than fast at top end . i cant even do 70-80 on most trails by me.. give me the low end
ok now carbs i have PILOT JETS size 30 (2o befor the bore job) because of UFOs 35 was stock and now the air screws are all the way in closed off
JET NEDDLES Q-4 stock is Q-2 BECAUSE OF THE OVER BORE
STOCK NEDDLES the e clip was moved to the second lowest setting ( making it richer)
MAIN JETS 280 - 300 YOU MUST CHECK THIS i melted a piston thus the over bore cause the pipes leaned it out to much i was told 270 for mains and melted pistons START BIG and go down ...main jets around 7 $ each spark plugs fowled out about 5$ each new pistons ,rings,over bore, time and fustration, cost me about 600$ . start big and go down . if it starts to run like it never did befor with all kinds of power SHUT IT DOWN !!! or you will be buying parts very soon lol

i know its long but thats what i have done to mine and 6 years latter its running strong
long live the XLT

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I had this pipe engine combo years ago. I still have an old EPI helix here for it too. Yellow EPI secondary spring in the third hole, red primary as mentioned above. I had the 34mm carbs with 210 210 and 220 in the pto cylinder. If I remeber right I have 10AL weights but needed 10MBs. You want your rpm to stay around 800-8100. I finally seized the crank around 14000 miles.