I am having a problem with my motor bogging when i am coming to a stop. What it seems like to me is that the secondary clutch is not closing properly so it seems like the clutch is staying open and causing the motor to bog. Is this something that is possible. brank

sounds like carb problem

I put on a differnt secondary going to try it in the morning. As for the carbs they have been cleaned 5 times so far this year and I heard the secondary close shut after I was already stopped when I was riding it . brank

To answer your original question, "yes it could"

Now I'll ask the simple one. How old is the belt? If it is undersize (worn narrow)that could also produce a starting bog.

I always say "don't rewire the house ,till after you've tried replacing the bulb."

On a sled that age, if the clutches have not been serviced it could be either of them.

A weak primary clutch spring could leave the primary sheaves spread also creating a starting bog.

Let us know how you make out.

Well it's not the secondary I rode 70 miles today and it was still having the bogging problem. I guess let me start by letting you know all the things I have done to the sled so far this year. I replaced the primary clutch and the secondary have cleaned the carbs at least 5 times and replaced the needle and seat , choke cable and fixed the leakin exhuast and fuel pump and all the fuel lines and filter. At frist this year I was getting gas in the crank case but the feul pump took care of that now I am getting this bogging. It bogs sometimes when I stop then try to take off it does not do it all the time then if I stop and shut it off it is hard to start and the middle and the clutch side plugs become fuel fouled when I try to restart it. It does seem to be a carb problem but I just don't know what to do with them I have cleaned many many carbs in my day and have never had any problems like this. I have checked the float height and they are with in spec. The carb boots do have some cracking on them. So it's back to the garage for me. brank

I did try a different belt and still the same problem. brank

does it idle to low? these sleds will bog if they don't idle high enough. any water? carbs synchronized? are you using rubber tipped needles in seats? use a mighty vac to test them. turn them upside down they should hold 7 psi all day. and the test wont lie.did you try putting the choke to it when it acts up/ or shut off fuel and try it? hope some of this helps...

10-4

Are your carb overflow lines clear, not blocked or kinked?

It idle's at 2200 and no the replacement needles were not the rubber tiped ones. and if I put the choke on it kills the motor. And if th gas is off it boggs and dies. brank

They are clear and fine. brank

I am wondering if I should just get carb rebuilt kits im not sure if floats are right or not they measure out within the mikuni specs for the vm 34 mm I attached a file for the mikuni specs. Its terriable this thing is not running right cuse we have quite a bit of snow here. brank

like said are you using aftermarket needle and seats with STEAL TIPPED needle??????????????? if so they more than likely leaking.. turn your carb upside down the brass float plate should be parallel with bottom of carb

yes it is the steal tipped one. even if the needles are new they would be leaking? brank

the steal are JUNK...... borrow a mityvac from someone and test them. use a mighty vac to test them. turn them upside down they should hold 7 psi all day. and the test wont lie.did you try putting the choke to it when it acts up/ or shut off fuel and try it?

I will try the pressure test and let you know the results. brank

Check your fuel tank vent line. Pressure build up in the tank will force fuel past even a new needle. I have used Mikuni
VM 26/26-1.5 steel tipped needles for years without problems, but they do wear faster than the viton tips. Are the new needles you put in 1.5mm holes ? If you got 3.5's by mistake they will flood because they are for gravity fed carbs.