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Polaris Files > Snowmobiles > Performance and Trail Sport
classic7
for a 02 700 classic
right now i only have hi beam
check both bulbs with meter looks okay
now on the switch i tried testing it at the plug and i get the
same complete circut no mater wich combo i tried

can the hi/lo switch come apart be repaired or replace

now on part # 5433291 is this just the blue button
or have to get # 2010167 for the whole assy. wich makes it pricey
just to get the hi/low to work right
snoman159
QUOTE(classic7 @ Dec 11 2007, 02:46 PM) *
for a 02 700 classic
right now i only have hi beam
check both bulbs with meter looks okay
now on the switch i tried testing it at the plug and i get the
same complete circut no mater wich combo i tried

can the hi/lo switch come apart be repaired or replace

now on part # 5433291 is this just the blue button
or have to get # 2010167 for the whole assy. wich makes it pricey
just to get the hi/low to work right

You are correct, 5433291 is just the button which won't do you any good. I would go over the wiring good before dropping the money on a new assembly, I think they run about $140 at the dealer. You could pick up a used one on snowest for around $50 if thats what you want to do. I would look for a bad ground, have you checked if you have a complete circuit across the wiring from the plug to the bulb, or from the the hot side of the bulb to the chassis?
classic7
Now I got her up and running
the lights are either on h ibeam and off low beam

classic7
I replaced swtich pod that i pick up on Ebay
headlights are fine now

so I started fiddling around with the old pod

after I took it all apart I started testing with a continuity tester
and I seam to find a fault with the bulb in the pod that lights up the dots or the grip heaters
and this bulb still lights up

lo/hi switch position
bulb in place
low-beam - low curciut live,hi curcuit live
hi-beam - low curcuit live, hi curcuit live

removed bulb
low-beam- low curcuit live, hi curcuit dead
hi-beam- low curcut dead, hi curcuit live

tested at the pins for the connector

one end ofthe bulb contacts low-beam curcuit ,other end contacts hi-beam curcuit

I have not installed this pod with bulb removed on the sled to test yet

so is it possible this bulb is what is causing these hi/low failures?
classic7
today I swap pods in the sled to see if this fix will work

with bulb removed inside the pod
now the low/hi switch works fine
classic7
Now I had the pod I bought from ebay failed no low beam,and now the little bulb is not the problem,

I discovered a easy way to do a test

pop off blue button ,with sled running you can wiggle this switch ,in the low beam postion
by pushing the switch foward and see if the low beams come on

it seams the contacts in the plunger switch is not makeing a good contact, it is a little plastic piece in the base of the
plunger switch that contains spring loaded contacts ,the upper one is for low beams and appeers to be sticking or there
is to much play were the plunger switch mounts and not putting enough pressure on the contacts,for now I glued a thin
piece of plastic inthe back of the switch mount to push the switch forward to apply more pressure to the contacts and so
far it is working, for how long dont no

also if head lights are dim this little piece may have melted and shorted out, of course you cant just buy the little part

If I can find a suitable replacment for this plunger switch ,maybe wire in a rocker type swtich
I will post if I find anything that may work

snowsport
QUOTE(classic7 @ Dec 12 2008, 10:26 AM) *
Now I had the pod I bought from ebay failed no low beam,and now the little bulb is not the problem,

I discovered a easy way to do a test

pop off blue button ,with sled running you can wiggle this switch ,in the low beam postion
by pushing the switch foward and see if the low beams come on

it seams the contacts in the plunger switch is not makeing a good contact, it is a little plastic piece in the base of the
plunger switch that contains spring loaded contacts ,the upper one is for low beams and appeers to be sticking or there
is to much play were the plunger switch mounts and not putting enough pressure on the contacts,for now I glued a thin
piece of plastic inthe back of the switch mount to push the switch forward to apply more pressure to the contacts and so
far it is working, for how long dont no

also if head lights are dim this little piece may have melted and shorted out, of course you cant just buy the little part

If I can find a suitable replacment for this plunger switch ,maybe wire in a rocker type swtich
I will post if I find anything that may work


Check the wattage of your headlight bulbs, if they are more than the 55/60 watt ones that came stock, like 80/100s they will melt switch after switch untill you change them.
gjfenez
I agree. Those bulbs I was sold off ebay will melt a switch on an old Indy chassis to get a better light, and will melt your switch. It happened to me. Polaris has been running three bulbs since 94 and the center one might be 80/100 and melting wires.
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