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> FST engine oil change
Fst-switchback
post Dec 14 2011, 12:52 AM
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After hearing all the oil change questions here is the easy way no wires involved
My way is to do it this way.
First suck the tank dry.
Next change the filter
Next add 2 of your 3 liters or us quarts of oil back into the tank.
Now remove the oil return hose coming up from the engine base to the tank and hold that into a jug.
Start the engine and wait untill it pumps the old oil from the base and cooler etc about one liter or us quart.
Wont take long!
It is pumping new oil through itself and purging the cooler etc.
Shut it off and add the last liter or quart untill you get to the add mark
The engine never never is without oil and is totaly purged of old oil
Winding a starter over to change oil just never made sense to me!
Can someone make this a STICKY

This post has been edited by ExcursionPSD: Nov 20 2012, 05:24 AM
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pickupman250
post Dec 14 2011, 05:09 AM
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awesome idea. i second the sticky


--------------------
07 fst, studded, autometer boost gauge, polished tunnel, cyclone rerouted, K&N filter, racecraft intercooler and boost box , rmk spindles,24/44t gear, 2012 reflash,rzimmer alt mod.
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redneck sledhead
post Dec 14 2011, 06:49 AM
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This is the way to do it, very easy and you dont leave any old oil behind, anyone that doesnt do it this way is doing it the hard way. blink.gif


--------------------
08 fst switchback 1.5 inch track, re routed vapour line, boost box reinforced, boost ref line upgrade, aftermarket boost guage, upgraded plugs, everything tucked and taped and a big heavy thumb and new track

2007 fst SB 144, that will be adding a few things to her, 3100 miles, tunnel bag, 155,222 secondary, 120-340 primary,ps-2,,11-66 weights,cyclone reroute, boost-vac guage, tow hitch 1995 indy trail to tow kids and wifes machine 2006 fst classic 128, burn damage , parting out the good things, have for sale, suspension, shocks, ski's, seat, snowflap, tunnel, heat exchangers, secondary, chaincase, jackshaft, muffler, turbo, intercooler minus fan, A arms, bumpers, handle bars and covering, keeping driveshaft,primary, windshield and alternator, if i missed anything just ask
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wingit
post Dec 14 2011, 12:38 PM
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Even if you run the old oil into a jug while its running, about 3 quarts,
and add new oil to the tank, Its not without oil more than a few seconds.
Many guys tip these over, they are running without oil..
untill they get back to the sled to shut it off.
just my 2 cents

We have 2 FST's and this post helped alot
thanks
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shopman
post Dec 14 2011, 07:38 PM
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QUOTE(wingit @ Dec 14 2011, 12:38 PM) *
Even if you run the old oil into a jug while its running, about 3 quarts,
and add new oil to the tank, Its not without oil more than a few seconds.
Many guys tip these over, they are running without oil..
untill they get back to the sled to shut it off.
just my 2 cents

We have 2 FST's and this post helped alot
thanks


You better check your rollover switch ?? they will shut it off when you tip it over so it will not run with out oil and some times when carving hard Mine has cutout too it can be a pain but not to often
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99 XC600
post Dec 15 2011, 07:11 AM
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QUOTE(Fst-switchback @ Dec 14 2011, 01:52 AM) *
After hearing all the oil change questions here is the easy way no wires involved
My way is to do it this way.
First suck the tank dry.
Next change the filter
Next add 2 of your 3 liters or us quarts of oil back into the tank.
Now remove the oil return hose coming up from the engine base to the tank and hold that into a jug.
Start the engine and wait untill it pumps the old oil from the base and cooler etc about one liter or us quart.
Wont take long!
It is pumping new oil through itself and purging the cooler etc.
Shut it off and add the last liter or quart untill you get to the add mark
The engine never never is without oil and is totaly purged of old oil
Winding a starter over to change oil just never made sense to me!
Can someone make this a STICKY



Great Idea, How are you sucking the oil out of the tank? Are you using a shop vac or small transfer pump?


--------------------
Current
2006 Polaris FST Classic


Oil Change Process - Video
Fuel Pump Repair Part 1 - Video
Fuel Pump Repair Part 2 - Video
Boost Gauge Install - Video
Temperature Sensor Replacement - Video

Past
1970 Rupp 440
1970 SKI-DOO 399 TNT
1984 Yamaha 340 Enticer
1988 Arctic Cat Jag 440 AFS
1995 SKI-DOO Formula Z 583
1999 Polaris XC600 (R.I.P. - Lost in a brush fire in the Spring of 2003)
1994 Arctic Cat Prowler 440 EFI (Electrical Nightmare - Good Riddance)
1998 Polaris Indy 500
1987 Ski Doo Safari 377E
1973 Arctic Cheetah 340 FA (Jag 3000 Hybrid)
2000 Polaris XC600SP
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redneck sledhead
post Dec 15 2011, 09:23 AM
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QUOTE(99 XC600 @ Dec 15 2011, 09:11 AM) *
Great Idea, How are you sucking the oil out of the tank? Are you using a shop vac or small transfer pump?

A small hosed transfer pump will do the trick


--------------------
08 fst switchback 1.5 inch track, re routed vapour line, boost box reinforced, boost ref line upgrade, aftermarket boost guage, upgraded plugs, everything tucked and taped and a big heavy thumb and new track

2007 fst SB 144, that will be adding a few things to her, 3100 miles, tunnel bag, 155,222 secondary, 120-340 primary,ps-2,,11-66 weights,cyclone reroute, boost-vac guage, tow hitch 1995 indy trail to tow kids and wifes machine 2006 fst classic 128, burn damage , parting out the good things, have for sale, suspension, shocks, ski's, seat, snowflap, tunnel, heat exchangers, secondary, chaincase, jackshaft, muffler, turbo, intercooler minus fan, A arms, bumpers, handle bars and covering, keeping driveshaft,primary, windshield and alternator, if i missed anything just ask
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Snobeeler
post Dec 15 2011, 01:51 PM
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It is very easy to siphon out also while oil is hot.


--------------------
06 FST Classic............. 8,700 miles, All Updates and Team Tips Completed, Yayou's 2012 ECU Upgrade, Reinforced Boost Box, PS Advanced Rider Adjustable Boost Pressure Controller, Innovative Motorsports Data Logger, Stewert Warner Boost Gauge, 08 Spindles, SLP slt Ski's with Dual Runners, Revalved M-10 shocks, Reinforced Front A-Arm, Rebalanced Drive Clutch, SLP Heat Vents, Gearcase Alignment Done, Violet Wire Fix, Rerouted Cyclone Seperator Vent to Muffler, Jackshaft Notch, 12 Volt D-C Outlet, Gas Tank Float Level Modification, RC7PYCBX Spark Plugs.

2014 800 Switchback Pro R Adventure..........1650 Miles, Rerouted VES Solenoid Outlet (sound familiar), StudBoy Duece Runners, Heavy Rear Track Spring.
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autoart3
post Dec 15 2011, 02:21 PM
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Make sure you use a somewhat large container with a sizeable opening (like a 4-5qt oil container) when running the motor and purging! A quart bottle is no good!.........don't ask me how I know! ohmy.gif Also, it only takes a second or two to drain a quart with motor running.
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99 XC600
post Dec 15 2011, 07:38 PM
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QUOTE(autoart3 @ Dec 15 2011, 03:21 PM) *
Make sure you use a somewhat large container with a sizeable opening (like a 4-5qt oil container) when running the motor and purging! A quart bottle is no good!.........don't ask me how I know! ohmy.gif Also, it only takes a second or two to drain a quart with motor running.


Sounds like an empty 4-5 quart oil jug would do the trick and they have a nice handle built in to them.


--------------------
Current
2006 Polaris FST Classic


Oil Change Process - Video
Fuel Pump Repair Part 1 - Video
Fuel Pump Repair Part 2 - Video
Boost Gauge Install - Video
Temperature Sensor Replacement - Video

Past
1970 Rupp 440
1970 SKI-DOO 399 TNT
1984 Yamaha 340 Enticer
1988 Arctic Cat Jag 440 AFS
1995 SKI-DOO Formula Z 583
1999 Polaris XC600 (R.I.P. - Lost in a brush fire in the Spring of 2003)
1994 Arctic Cat Prowler 440 EFI (Electrical Nightmare - Good Riddance)
1998 Polaris Indy 500
1987 Ski Doo Safari 377E
1973 Arctic Cheetah 340 FA (Jag 3000 Hybrid)
2000 Polaris XC600SP
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dirtiedeeds
post Dec 15 2011, 08:17 PM
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Any suggestions as to oil brand and weight?


--------------------
MY14 Switchback 800 Pro-R


MY06 Sportsman 500 H.O.
Dynojet jet kit install, K&N intake air filter and pre charger, Glacier plow system.
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redneck sledhead
post Dec 16 2011, 05:41 AM
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QUOTE(dirtiedeeds @ Dec 15 2011, 10:17 PM) *
Any suggestions as to oil brand and weight?

there is some good readings on here about people using different brands and weights, but we always use the polaris brand. Type in ,,, " Is it time to rethink oil" that thread was back a couple pages.


--------------------
08 fst switchback 1.5 inch track, re routed vapour line, boost box reinforced, boost ref line upgrade, aftermarket boost guage, upgraded plugs, everything tucked and taped and a big heavy thumb and new track

2007 fst SB 144, that will be adding a few things to her, 3100 miles, tunnel bag, 155,222 secondary, 120-340 primary,ps-2,,11-66 weights,cyclone reroute, boost-vac guage, tow hitch 1995 indy trail to tow kids and wifes machine 2006 fst classic 128, burn damage , parting out the good things, have for sale, suspension, shocks, ski's, seat, snowflap, tunnel, heat exchangers, secondary, chaincase, jackshaft, muffler, turbo, intercooler minus fan, A arms, bumpers, handle bars and covering, keeping driveshaft,primary, windshield and alternator, if i missed anything just ask
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dirtiedeeds
post Dec 16 2011, 04:44 PM
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QUOTE(redneck sledhead @ Dec 16 2011, 05:41 AM) *
there is some good readings on here about people using different brands and weights, but we always use the polaris brand. Type in ,,, " Is it time to rethink oil" that thread was back a couple pages.

Thanks, I'll check it out. With this new machine of mine being a FS, it's like learning everything all over again.


--------------------
MY14 Switchback 800 Pro-R


MY06 Sportsman 500 H.O.
Dynojet jet kit install, K&N intake air filter and pre charger, Glacier plow system.
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autoart3
post Dec 16 2011, 07:07 PM
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QUOTE(99 XC600 @ Dec 15 2011, 08:38 PM) *
Sounds like an empty 4-5 quart oil jug would do the trick and they have a nice handle built in to them.

Yup......those work well, and if you have one with the clear strip up the center, it's easy to see how much you have purged.
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cdn20valve
post Dec 16 2011, 08:34 PM
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QUOTE(autoart3 @ Dec 16 2011, 08:07 PM) *
Yup......those work well, and if you have one with the clear strip up the center, it's easy to see how much you have purged.


I've done the oil change FST switchbacks way, and it was really easy. Thanks bro.

I used Mobil 1 0w40 synthetic european formula.
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Fst-switchback
post Dec 17 2011, 09:30 PM
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Also I stick a piece of tubing into the hose coming from the cooler to make it longer.
An old windsheild washer antifreeze jug is almost clear and works real well as the catch jug.
Hey there is a fine line between lazy and stupid!!!!!! laugh.gif
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Fst-switchback
post Dec 17 2011, 09:58 PM
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Ya know I just have to add one more thing here about oil.
I have a 3 point oil testing machine and have tested every oil out there!
Harley oil won 0nly because it is so heavy but a close second was Polaris and Petro can
Mobile 1 was a big dissapointment not even beating Walmart yellow jug pennsoil
Spams oil better go back to selling soap cause it was even worse.
The kit from polaris is not that bad when you look at the price of that good of oil and the right filter as well
Stepping down off my soap box now!
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SWITCHMAN
post Dec 18 2011, 09:38 AM
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QUOTE(Fst-switchback @ Dec 17 2011, 09:58 PM) *
Ya know I just have to add one more thing here about oil.
I have a 3 point oil testing machine and have tested every oil out there!
Harley oil won 0nly because it is so heavy but a close second was Polaris and Petro can
Mobile 1 was a big dissapointment not even beating Walmart yellow jug pennsoil
Spams oil better go back to selling soap cause it was even worse.
The kit from polaris is not that bad when you look at the price of that good of oil and the right filter as well
Stepping down off my soap box now!

How did the Amsoil fair in the testing? I've been using 0-30 signature series.


--------------------
'13 Switchback Assault 800
'12 Switchback Pro-R 600 (Wife)
Gone:
'06 FST Switchback , 6,000 miles, 172 Extreme Max 1.4" studs, SLP Powder Pros, 9" SLP Carbides and 1/4" Ski Savers, MY09 LW adjustable spindles, Ski Stance @ 43.5". Complete Slp intake and heat control package. 24/44 gears with 80p chain, 120/340 Blk/Grn primary, 140/260 secondary, 11/66 weights, Team 60-40.46 Helix, Delrin washer. Yayou stage 3 reflash and PS2 Wet Turbo upgrade, Racecraft Intercooler. PS HD motor mounts, Turbo Dynamics exhaust, All 4 shocks revalved by Deycore Interprises, NGK BKR9EIX plugs. Stock BOV. Autometer Boost/Vac Gauge. Replaced all ref lines w/ 1/8" fuel lines and clamps. Fuel float mod. Upgraded headlight bulbs and projector beam. Notched jack shaft cover. Rerouted oil vapor line to exhaust. Reinforced boost box. 0.375 torsion springs. Relocated boost control valve. Powdercoated A-arms & Spindles. Custom Graphics by ARTICFX. Receiver hitch bumper, A-arm guards, Tunnel protectors, Spare belt clip up front, Rox 3.5" pivioting riser, Fusion Throttle Cable, Handlebar/map bag, Tunnel pack. Grounded violet sensor wires. Skinz Heat-Loc Handguards, LED tail light. Snoking oil level/pressure kit. Rzimmer Alternator Pulley/Belt kit

Kids sled:
'03 XCSP 600 V-Force III reeds, Slp Air Horn Kit, Slp Powder Snow Prefilters with Flow-rites, Jetted 2 sizes over, 120 Gold Diggers down middle, SLP SLT Skis with 6" Carbides, 3/8" Ski Savers, Backrest with bag, Tank/map bag, Upgraded headlights. Perc Reverse & E-start, 2" pivioting riser.
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GSXRMyers
post Dec 20 2011, 04:15 PM
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Do you have to remove the air filter box inorder to get the Oil filter to changed or will it fit past it?
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Fst-switchback
post Dec 20 2011, 04:44 PM
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QUOTE(GSXRMyers @ Dec 20 2011, 03:15 PM) *
Do you have to remove the air filter box inorder to get the Oil filter to changed or will it fit past it?


I always remove it and get it out of the way and its real easy to do wink.gif
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