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> FST Oil Change Procedure ???, Need some help
SWITCHMAN
post Mar 30 2009, 06:30 AM
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I'm wondering if someone could explain to me how to change oil on my FST Switchback. It sounds like I need jumper wire. I looked thru the FAQ's and couldn't find anything. Also if you could send me a link to track tension that would be great. Any help much appreciated! Thanks.

This post has been edited by SWITCHMAN: Mar 30 2009, 06:33 AM


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dofo1
post Mar 30 2009, 07:33 AM
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If you buy the oil change kit from Polaris, it will come with the jumper and instructions, along with oil and filter.


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SnoKIng
post Mar 30 2009, 09:34 AM
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QUOTE(dofo1 @ Mar 30 2009, 08:33 AM) *
If you buy the oil change kit from Polaris, it will come with the jumper and instructions, along with oil and filter.



You really need the instructions and the jumper because, you crank the starter over to pump the oil out. The jumper allows you to do that with out the engine starting.

After you have purchased the Polaris kit one time , you have the instructions and the jumper. You can shop to save some money on oil and the filter after that but I haven't found much of a savings. Plus I haven't found an off the shelf brand of synthetic rated at 0-40 like the Polaris manual states. The quarts in the kit don't have a viscosity rating on them though. Closest I've seen on the shelve is Mobile 1 with a 15-50 rating.

I spent 2 hours doing it the first time. Next time should be an hour or less.

This post has been edited by SnoKIng: Mar 30 2009, 09:35 AM
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falcon
post Mar 30 2009, 06:24 PM
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My service manual calls out Polaris Ps-3 with a note 0w-50. If i'm not mistaking Mobil makes a 0w-50, I thought i saw it while shopping for other oil.
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SnoKIng
post Mar 31 2009, 11:15 AM
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QUOTE(falcon @ Mar 30 2009, 07:24 PM) *
My service manual calls out Polaris Ps-3 with a note 0w-50. If i'm not mistaking Mobil makes a 0w-50, I thought i saw it while shopping for other oil.



I think you may have a typo there and should say PS-4. which is what my owners manual shows

I just did a search on MOBILE site for 0-50 and 0-50W without any results. I did find this though.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...ine_Coking.aspx

Now I will have to see where it is available and how much.

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Bowana
post Mar 31 2009, 05:32 PM
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QUOTE(SnoKIng @ Mar 31 2009, 11:15 AM) *
I think you may have a typo there and should say PS-4. which is what my owners manual shows

I just did a search on MOBILE site for 0-50 and 0-50W without any results. I did find this though.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...ine_Coking.aspx

Now I will have to see where it is available and how much.

Did anyone find an aftermarket source for the oil filter as the difference in the price of oil here in Canada is not that much where I would change to save $1 per litre X 3 as over the course of a season you haven't saved enough to pay for breakfast on a Sunday morning.


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guyzoun
post Apr 10 2009, 06:30 AM
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QUOTE(SWITCHMAN @ Mar 30 2009, 08:30 AM) *
I'm wondering if someone could explain to me how to change oil on my FST Switchback. It sounds like I need jumper wire. I looked thru the FAQ's and couldn't find anything. Also if you could send me a link to track tension that would be great. Any help much appreciated! Thanks.


Buy the Polaris oil change kit and follow instructions. My advice is once the engine is at 150F, shut if off and use a fluid extractor and drain the oil cooling tank. Once you set the jumper wire and follow instructions, you will only have to crank the engine once or twice to complete the draining phase. Refill with the oil level at lower dipstick mark.

Voilà !
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snowchild
post Oct 3 2009, 03:33 PM
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I tried to change oil and I think I followed instructions right. I went to crank the engine over and thats all it did was click. The clicking was down by the gearcase. It sounds like a seleniod (SP) when a battery is going dead. I'm sure I am overlooking something simple here. I am really new to these sleds and trying to learn alot more about these things. Anyway any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Snobeeler
post Oct 3 2009, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE(snowchild @ Oct 3 2009, 05:33 PM) *
I tried to change oil and I think I followed instructions right. I went to crank the engine over and thats all it did was click. The clicking was down by the gearcase. It sounds like a seleniod (SP) when a battery is going dead. I'm sure I am overlooking something simple here. I am really new to these sleds and trying to learn alot more about these things. Anyway any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

My first thought, is the battery dead, like it sounds? If battery is good, return wires and oil line to normal and see if it cranks over. A click by the gearcase probably is from the starter. Report back.


--------------------
06 FST Classic............. 8,700 miles, All Updates and Team Tips Completed, Yayou's 2012 ECU Upgrade, Reinforced Boost Box, PS Advanced Rider Adjustable Boost Pressure Controller, Innovative Motorsports Data Logger, Stewert Warner Boost Gauge, 08 Spindles, SLP slt Ski's with Dual Runners, Revalved M-10 shocks, Reinforced Front A-Arm, Rebalanced Drive Clutch, SLP Heat Vents, Gearcase Alignment Done, Violet Wire Fix, Rerouted Cyclone Seperator Vent to Muffler, Jackshaft Notch, 12 Volt D-C Outlet, Gas Tank Float Level Modification, RC7PYCBX Spark Plugs.

2014 800 Switchback Pro R Adventure..........1650 Miles, Rerouted VES Solenoid Outlet (sound familiar), StudBoy Duece Runners, Heavy Rear Track Spring.
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snowchild
post Oct 3 2009, 05:51 PM
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Good call that's the first thing that I tried before I posted. Worked like it was supposed to fired right up. The weird thing is that there is the same colored wires down by that selenoid that the jumper wires are under the handle bar pad. Just don't know if that is coincidence or not. I still think that I am doing something wrong. But went over the directions over and over. I am done for tonite but will look at it again tomorrow. Keep the ideas coming.

Thanks again
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Snobeeler
post Oct 3 2009, 07:17 PM
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QUOTE(snowchild @ Oct 3 2009, 07:51 PM) *
Good call that's the first thing that I tried before I posted. Worked like it was supposed to fired right up. The weird thing is that there is the same colored wires down by that selenoid that the jumper wires are under the handle bar pad. Just don't know if that is coincidence or not. I still think that I am doing something wrong. But went over the directions over and over. I am done for tonite but will look at it again tomorrow. Keep the ideas coming.

Thanks again

Not sure where you got the directions so here is another set just in case yours are wrong. Sounds like the problem is with the way you are setting up the 2 wire selenoid plug. If these directions do not help I can take a picture of how the wires should look when changing the oil. Check all your fuses too.

NOTE: The coolant temperature must be within the
specified range prior to beginning the oil change
procedure.
3. Verify the engine is off.
4. Open the hood, and remove the left-side panel.
5. Disconnect the starter motor solenoid control harness.
6. Insert the female WHT/RED plug into the male pin from
the solenoid. IMPORTANT (into the male pin from the selenoid)
7. Insert the BROWN male pin from the jumper harness into
the solenoid’s female port. IMPORTANT (into the female port going to the selenoid)
8. Open the handlebar cover. Locate the connector with the
BROWN and RED/WHITE wires connected to it.
9. Connect the plug from the jumper to the handlebar harness
connector so that the BROWN wires match.
10. Open the fuse panel cover and remove the 20A EFI fuse
from the fuse panel.
11. Reinstall the left-side compartment door panel.
12. Remove the oil return hose from the front of the oil storage
tank.
13. Have an assistant, wearing eye protection and protective


--------------------
06 FST Classic............. 8,700 miles, All Updates and Team Tips Completed, Yayou's 2012 ECU Upgrade, Reinforced Boost Box, PS Advanced Rider Adjustable Boost Pressure Controller, Innovative Motorsports Data Logger, Stewert Warner Boost Gauge, 08 Spindles, SLP slt Ski's with Dual Runners, Revalved M-10 shocks, Reinforced Front A-Arm, Rebalanced Drive Clutch, SLP Heat Vents, Gearcase Alignment Done, Violet Wire Fix, Rerouted Cyclone Seperator Vent to Muffler, Jackshaft Notch, 12 Volt D-C Outlet, Gas Tank Float Level Modification, RC7PYCBX Spark Plugs.

2014 800 Switchback Pro R Adventure..........1650 Miles, Rerouted VES Solenoid Outlet (sound familiar), StudBoy Duece Runners, Heavy Rear Track Spring.
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riotten22
post Oct 3 2009, 07:29 PM
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I did my first oil change on my FST switch today. Followed the directions and it went pretty smooth. Getting to the oil filter was the hardest part in my opinion. The only part I found contradicting was the shop manual says to make sure oil level is just above the low line on the dipstick and the directions in the oil kit say it should be at the oil change line all the way towards the high end of the dipstick. Anyone know what is up with this? I filled to just above the low line as this was already about 28oz of the 3rd quart.
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WILKEY69
post Oct 3 2009, 07:58 PM
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QUOTE(riotten22 @ Oct 3 2009, 08:29 PM) *
I did my first oil change on my FST switch today. Followed the directions and it went pretty smooth. Getting to the oil filter was the hardest part in my opinion. The only part I found contradicting was the shop manual says to make sure oil level is just above the low line on the dipstick and the directions in the oil kit say it should be at the oil change line all the way towards the high end of the dipstick. Anyone know what is up with this? I filled to just above the low line as this was already about 28oz of the 3rd quart.


There is a problem of oil getting into the airbox when the oil tank is filled to the high mark. One of the solutions is to fill the oil to just above the low line instead of to the high line and most people are re-routing the hose that goes into the side of the airbox down to their exhaust, thus eliminating any chance of oil getting into the airbox. There are several threads on different ways to do that posted in this forum.

This post has been edited by WILKEY69: Oct 3 2009, 08:00 PM


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snowchild
post Oct 3 2009, 08:04 PM
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OK just went back out and tried to go through the a deal again from square one. Started out ran it until 155 degrees and pulled the oil line off and with the rest same results. But I put everything back together and just for the heck off it I left the EFI fuse out and did the exact same thing as it did with the jumper wire just clicked. Am I doing something wrong or should I look else where.

I am glad you guys are here for me Thanks again!!

This post has been edited by snowchild: Oct 3 2009, 08:06 PM
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Snobeeler
post Oct 3 2009, 09:33 PM
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QUOTE(snowchild @ Oct 3 2009, 10:04 PM) *
Am I doing something wrong or should I look else where.

From here I would suspect you are not getting power from the jumper wire that goes to the handlebars. You are not getting power to the starter selenoid. I will try to simulate what you are seeing tomarrow afternoon on mine. I will report back with some pictures. We will get her!

This post has been edited by Snobeeler: Oct 3 2009, 09:35 PM


--------------------
06 FST Classic............. 8,700 miles, All Updates and Team Tips Completed, Yayou's 2012 ECU Upgrade, Reinforced Boost Box, PS Advanced Rider Adjustable Boost Pressure Controller, Innovative Motorsports Data Logger, Stewert Warner Boost Gauge, 08 Spindles, SLP slt Ski's with Dual Runners, Revalved M-10 shocks, Reinforced Front A-Arm, Rebalanced Drive Clutch, SLP Heat Vents, Gearcase Alignment Done, Violet Wire Fix, Rerouted Cyclone Seperator Vent to Muffler, Jackshaft Notch, 12 Volt D-C Outlet, Gas Tank Float Level Modification, RC7PYCBX Spark Plugs.

2014 800 Switchback Pro R Adventure..........1650 Miles, Rerouted VES Solenoid Outlet (sound familiar), StudBoy Duece Runners, Heavy Rear Track Spring.
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snowchild
post Oct 3 2009, 11:34 PM
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QUOTE(Snobeeler @ Oct 3 2009, 10:33 PM) *
From here I would suspect you are not getting power from the jumper wire that goes to the handlebars. You are not getting power to the starter selenoid. I will try to simulate what you are seeing tomarrow afternoon on mine. I will report back with some pictures. We will get her!



Yer the man!!
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Snobeeler
post Oct 4 2009, 11:13 AM
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QUOTE(snowchild @ Oct 4 2009, 01:34 AM) *
Yer the man!!

Ok here we go. First look at the pictures and verify you are removing the proper fuse and making the proper connections. As a side note, the kill switch can be up or down. After the pictures I will give you info on what you should see with multi meter (voltage meter). I know a lot of this is simple but we need to check it all at this point.

Remember, you can click on a picture to get a closer look.
1st picture is the correct fuse to pull.
2nd picture is the jumper wire connection at the handlebar.
3rd picture is the jumper installed at selenoid side of selenoid plug.
4th picture is the selenoid plug back together with jumper installed.
At this point it should crank over whithout starting.
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If it still does not crank get a multi meter or equivilant and check the following. Only takes a couple minutes.

Pull the EFI fuse for all tests.
Install jumper in handlebar plug and check that the other (male) end has continuity to ground, key at start or off.

Now with the jumper installed at both ends and selenoid plug NOT together, check for continuity to ground on the male pin (next to the jumper pin) on the plug that connects to the selenoid.

Now with the selenoid plug still apart, check the female side of the selenoid plug that goes to the wiring harness. It should have continuity to ground with key off and 12.5 volts with key turned to start.

This post has been edited by Snobeeler: Oct 4 2009, 11:15 AM


--------------------
06 FST Classic............. 8,700 miles, All Updates and Team Tips Completed, Yayou's 2012 ECU Upgrade, Reinforced Boost Box, PS Advanced Rider Adjustable Boost Pressure Controller, Innovative Motorsports Data Logger, Stewert Warner Boost Gauge, 08 Spindles, SLP slt Ski's with Dual Runners, Revalved M-10 shocks, Reinforced Front A-Arm, Rebalanced Drive Clutch, SLP Heat Vents, Gearcase Alignment Done, Violet Wire Fix, Rerouted Cyclone Seperator Vent to Muffler, Jackshaft Notch, 12 Volt D-C Outlet, Gas Tank Float Level Modification, RC7PYCBX Spark Plugs.

2014 800 Switchback Pro R Adventure..........1650 Miles, Rerouted VES Solenoid Outlet (sound familiar), StudBoy Duece Runners, Heavy Rear Track Spring.
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snowchild
post Oct 4 2009, 11:51 AM
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Thanks a ton there Snobeeler. I finally got it. I tried a different jumper wire and it took care of the problem. You guys are great on this forum. Now too changing plugs so don't be surprised if you here from me again.

Thanks again
Eric
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Fst-switchback
post Nov 5 2009, 11:44 PM
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All I do is start her up and let her run untill 2 1/2 quarts come out then shut it off and change the filter and add 2 1/2 quarts of oil!
Takes all of five minutes and the engine still gets all of its oil pressure.
I dont do it but in theory these things could run all day 2 quarts low because they feed from the bottom of the reservoir wink.gif
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gjg1971
post Nov 17 2009, 06:40 AM
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Hey guys I'm new to this thread and just bought my 2010 Turbo LX. This is really good info on here. I will be monitoring it regularly. Thanks for sharing. I just read the oil change procedure in the book and was a little confused myself until I read this. Now all we need is snow so I can get the first 500 miles on it and try this procedure.

This post has been edited by ExcursionPSD: Nov 17 2009, 12:32 PM


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