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> 95 rxl need help, runs for five minutes then losing power
buffalokid
post Jan 12 2009, 04:36 PM
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Hello,

I have an rxl that I just got this winter, and have had a bunch of problems getting to run right. At first it would run but with no power. I replaced the fuel filters, the plugs, the battery, the driven clutch & belt, and still no luck. So yesterday I got the idea to put a car battery in it, and now it rips for about five minutes and then it runs like it did. I'm thinking gas tank vent is not venting and i'm getting a vacuum to it after enough fuel is sucked out of it. Then it no longer has preasure like it should. Has anyone else run into this before?
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buffalokid
post Jan 15 2009, 05:57 PM
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QUOTE(buffalokid @ Jan 12 2009, 05:36 PM) *
Hello,

I have an rxl that I just got this winter, and have had a bunch of problems getting to run right. At first it would run but with no power. I replaced the fuel filters, the plugs, the battery, the driven clutch & belt, and still no luck. So yesterday I got the idea to put a car battery in it, and now it rips for about five minutes and then it runs like it did. I'm thinking gas tank vent is not venting and i'm getting a vacuum to it after enough fuel is sucked out of it. Then it no longer has preasure like it should. Has anyone else run into this before?

Its not the vent it works fine and it's not a fuel presure problem I have almost 40psi. When i first start riding it will go like it should. After about 1/4 mile it seems like there is a loss of power. I don't think it has anything to do with the engine. Is it possible that the bogey and idler wheel could be bad? Could they cause a loss of acceleration after they get warm or something? I'm really at a loss here please help! Any ideas would be great.
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71rdrnr
post Jan 16 2009, 08:47 AM
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Any codes flashing on the ECU??
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mrholmquist
post Jan 16 2009, 07:02 PM
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maybe it is getting too hot and the EFI is derating the power . Check that the water pump belt is tight/
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buffalokid
post Jan 20 2009, 03:28 PM
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QUOTE(mrholmquist @ Jan 16 2009, 08:02 PM) *
maybe it is getting too hot and the EFI is derating the power . Check that the water pump belt is tight/

There are no code flashing, I did jumper the wires on the diagnostic plug and no codes. I also checked the primary clutch for flat spots on the weights and roller they are fine. Someone told me that if there were flat spots on them that it would make it bog out. I then loosened the track and tried to see if I could move the drive shaft up and down. It moves a tiny bit maybee 1/16". So is that too much movement?
Mike,
If the water pump belt is slipping would the efi computer lower the psi form the fuel pump or just shorten the pulse width form the injectors. The reason I ask is I have a pressure guage mounted in the dash now so I can watch as I ride and it seems to stay around 40psi when i'm on the gas.
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mrholmquist
post Jan 20 2009, 05:56 PM
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QUOTE(buffalokid @ Jan 20 2009, 04:28 PM) *
There are no code flashing, I did jumper the wires on the diagnostic plug and no codes. I also checked the primary clutch for flat spots on the weights and roller they are fine. Someone told me that if there were flat spots on them that it would make it bog out. I then loosened the track and tried to see if I could move the drive shaft up and down. It moves a tiny bit maybee 1/16". So is that too much movement?
Mike,
If the water pump belt is slipping would the efi computer lower the psi form the fuel pump or just shorten the pulse width form the injectors. The reason I ask is I have a pressure guage mounted in the dash now so I can watch as I ride and it seems to stay around 40psi when i'm on the gas.



Actuallly it will lengthen the pulse width and overfuel it to try to cool the engine . The result is similar to trying to drive with the choke partially on. There should be no change in fuel pressure.


You mentioned in your first post that you got it to run by installing a car battery , have you checked the charging voltage while the sled is running?

This post has been edited by mrholmquist: Jan 20 2009, 05:59 PM
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buffalokid
post Jan 20 2009, 06:35 PM
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QUOTE(mrholmquist @ Jan 20 2009, 06:56 PM) *
Actuallly it will lengthen the pulse width and overfuel it to try to cool the engine . The result is similar to trying to drive with the choke partially on. There should be no change in fuel pressure.
You mentioned in your first post that you got it to run by installing a car battery , have you checked the charging voltage while the sled is running?

The car battery seemed to really make a difference. But no I have not checked charging volts, What should it be? I have about 12.6volts with the engine off. The other thing is that when I first hooked up the black and grey wires on the diagnostic plug it gave me a code for the crankcase temp sensor. I didn't have a real good connection with the jumper wire and it stop reading the code, when I hooked it back up there was no code. I have not been able to make it read out a code since then. I have rode it around the field near my house a bunch and rechecked a few times.

This post has been edited by buffalokid: Jan 20 2009, 06:35 PM
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buffalokid
post Jan 22 2009, 04:22 PM
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QUOTE(buffalokid @ Jan 20 2009, 07:35 PM) *
The car battery seemed to really make a difference. But no I have not checked charging volts, What should it be? I have about 12.6volts with the engine off. The other thing is that when I first hooked up the black and grey wires on the diagnostic plug it gave me a code for the crankcase temp sensor. I didn't have a real good connection with the jumper wire and it stop reading the code, when I hooked it back up there was no code. I have not been able to make it read out a code since then. I have rode it around the field near my house a bunch and rechecked a few times.

Ok, the water pump belt is a bit loose. They want $28 dollars for a new one at the dealer. Does anyone know where I might find the belt cheaper? It seems like a real small belt and I'm not sure if anyone else will have it.
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